Alexander Wang has unveiled his first collection of bags for
Balenciaga – and there’s not a signature stud in sight. His Le Dix designs are
all smooth, supple leather, minimalist hardware and sharp corners, in suitably
sophisticated shades of Forest Green, Pearl Grey and Black. Complete with
skinny straps and luggage tags there might be a hint of schoolyard satchel
about them, but these bags are entirely grown up.
It’s only a handful of designs but it’s enough for Wang to
seriously mark out his plans for Balenciaga. His predecessor, Nicolas
Ghesquiere, tended to use studs and urban-inspired embellishments – a lot like
Wang does with his eponymous label. So it seems like the new Creative Director
has deliberately avoided designs that would earn him close comparisons to Ghesquiere
or, worse, suggest that he can only come up with slouchy, studded styles. The
Le Dix collection is a hint at a cleaner aesthetic and a more sophisticated
side to the designer, but still pays tribute to Balenciaga’s heritage (the
brand’s original address was number 10, Avenue George V).
But how do the Le Dix bags – one of the most anticipated
accessory lines of the year – compare to the Alexander Wang classics that we
already know and love from his own label? The metal-cornered totes, the Rocco,
the Rockie and the Diego have been some of Wang’s biggest hits, so I’ve gathered
them here; if you have a penchant for punchy hardware and textured leather,
this reads like a wishlist.
The Rocco
Only Wang could take the idea of a humble gym bag and make
it an effortlessly cool accessory. The relaxed duffel shape and rows of rounded
studs have become instantly recognisable, and coveted everywhere. Alongside
monochromatic black, white and pebble grey, fresh new-season shades are
introduced twice a year to keep up with demand. Right now emerald, orange and
metallic gold are all vying for attention.
The Diego
This bucket style is one of Wang’s most urbanite designs –
the cluster of studs and belted top make for a hefty amount of hardware. His
signature tough-luxe details, combined with pebbled, blistered, matt or
elephant-textured leather, transition effortlessly across the seasons but
really come into their own for autumn/winter – it’s perfect for adding edge to
any look.
Metal Corners
Not restricted to any one style, Wang’s signature metal
appliques mark out the corners of some of his most enviable bags. More lightweight
than his studded designs, the Marion satchel and Prisma tote are particular
favourites with devotees of the brand. They tend to appear in sludgy neutrals
but occasionally a shot of scarlet or a python effect will creep into the
collection.
The Emilie
Arguably the most sophisticated of Alexander Wang’s designs
for his own label, the Emilie has a much more structured look than the Diego or
Rocco. It’s more reminiscent of the traditional, oversized ‘it bag’ but hasn’t
lost any of Wang’s downtown cool, with metallic corner details and a flared,
almost winged, shape. The detachable strap means it can be slung messenger style
over your shoulder for a hit of chilled-out nonchalance.
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